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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.